Reflections on the first few weeks

The most startling thing about our first week and a half has been seeing the normality with which people continue their lives despite the daily struggles. Our cohort were all very aware of the exaggerated stereotypes of the dangers of Palestine in the media (especially the common fallacy that West Bank was engulfed by terrorism and violence): At our first team induction in the Sharek Youth Forum building, our Palestinian ‘In-country Volunteers’ (ICVs) clearly found our lack of any glaring false preconceptions about their country quite anticlimactic.

However, no amount of prior reading and understanding could prepare us for the total resilience with which the people of the West Bank continue their lives, while fighting the injustices they face. Following our first conversations each other’s hobbies, studies, interests and social lives, our Palestinian colleagues soon talked frankly about these daily struggles including mistreatment at checkpoints and restrictions on travel. We could offer no conversation in return except understanding and shared indignation. My home country of Scotland, they were told that afternoon, had previously held a democratic independence referendum. Sitting in Ramallah, having passed through Qalandia checkpoint and into the Occupied Territories for the first time, the irony and the dissimilarity between our situations was startling.

Yet, later that week, while exploring the bustling streets – filled with Western brands, shisha bars, and shawarma restaurants – we continually saw a way of life so normal and relatable. The lives of all Palestinians in the West Bank were framed by injustice, but in no way does this impede the vibrancy and friendliness of the region.

Palestinian Olive Trees

It was in this context, that we have begun at our work at the Palestinian Farmers' Union. From its small office in Ramallah, the PFU fights to protect farmers from across the West Bank and Gaza from economic iniquity, protect them from natural crises, and uphold their rights in the face of their unique political situation. Their concerns with issues of land rights, water supplies, and trade restrictions hit at the heart of Palestine’s current plight. After a brief introduction to the offices, we travelled to Bil’in were we saw the effects of occupation first-hand. Our guide showed us hillsides which once contained scores of near-pre-historic olive trees, now dissected by the Wall and the Israeli settlement of Modi'in Illit, barren of trees. In this field, we were told, his cousin had died protesting against these threats to the livelihood of their village.

Bil'In

Our work here would develop over the coming weeks; preparing briefings and proposals to various NGOs and donors, building the PFU’s communications with high-profile individuals and growing the PFU’s social media presence. Yet after just a few days it was already immediately clear to both me and Ben, as it was to our ICV Beesan and all those we were working with, just how crucial this work is in protecting the rights of the people who rely on this land and who for generations have strived to protect it.